Joséphine Bowes – a 19th Century fashionista
New exhibition focuses on the Bowes Museum’s textile collection
The co-founder (with husband John) of the Bowes Museum1 didn’t have to dress in hand-me-downs and nor did she. But as a collector she saw the value in saving things for future generations to enjoy.
Born 200 years ago, Joséphine Bowes collected textiles as she collected many other artefacts and from this weekend some of the best examples will be on display in the Fashion & Textile Gallery at the Bowes.
It’s a partner exhibition to the bigger Joséphine Bowes: Trendsetters and Trailblazers which runs alongside it, with both putting Joséphine’s important role at the forefront of the Bowes story.
This new special display focuses on the textile acquisitions made by Joséphine (and John… although it’s easy to imagine his French wife’s guiding hand) and highlights her interest in contemporary fashion.
An eclectic display of textiles includes items of clothing and accessories actually worn by Joséphine – some not displayed publicly for years – and things bought by her as a collector.
You will see woven and embroidered chair covers along with ecclesiastical textiles, lace and other items purchased for the museum at the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1867.
Also featured are example of historic dress from the 1850s and 1860s and archival material relating to Joséphine’s purchases which give a fascinating insight into her fashion preferences.
Complementing these exhibits are more recent examples of French haute couture, including those purchased with Art Fundʼs New Collecting Award in 2015 and with contributions from the Friends of The Bowes Museum.
They include pieces by iconic 20th Century designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli (1890 – 1973) and Yves Saint Laurent (1936 – 2008) which were acquired with a mind to what Joséphine might have invested in had she lived in the 20th and 21st centuries.
Other French designers represented are Jacques Fath (1912 – 1954), Jeanne Paquin (1869 – 1936) and Madeleine Vionnet (1876 – 1975). Striking hats by Simone Mirman (1912 – 2008) are also included.
The display pinpoints the arrival of French fashions in the North East when, a decade after Joséphine’s death in 1874, John James Fenwick (1846 -1905), founder of the Newcastle department store, began to bring examples of couture over from Paris in the mid-1880s.
A series of textile- and fashion-related events will coincide with the exhibition, free with day admission or membership, including monthly ‘spotlight tours’ led by Rachel Whitworth, curator of fashion and textiles.
Rachel said: “This exciting exhibition, entirely drawn from the Bowes Museumʼs permanent collection, is an opportunity to celebrate Joséphine Bowes as a woman both of and ahead of her time.
“She was a discerning collector of textiles and purchased clothes from the most fashionable couturiers and dressmakers of her time.
“The museum has sought to build on her legacy with examples of work by some of the most significant French designers of the 20th and 21st centuries.
“Many of the items in the exhibition have not been displayed before and provide fresh insights into the formation of the museum.”
The Bowes Museum’s ‘Curiosity Project’ has been shortlisted in the Permanent Exhibition of the Year category at the 23rd annual Museum and Heritage Awards, often called ‘the Oscars of the museum world’. They celebrate the best in the world of museums, galleries and cultural and heritage visitor attractions. The winners will be announced at a ceremony in London on May 15